
Not surprisingly, most American conversations about Amsterdam revolve around two things: pot and hookers. Not that these things aren’t fascinating, especially in a culture that is more repressed than even it can admit. I suppose if you’re hanging out with the older circuit, conversations about Anne Frank, Rembrandt van Rijn (I would argue that the majority of American people don’t even know his last name–I didn’t.) and canals might come up, but for the most part, it’s all weed and prostitutes. And for most people stepping off of the train at Amsterdam Central Station, these vices are easily fulfilled. It’s right there in front of you. And all the tourists are there looking for it, or at least at it. It’s in all the guidebooks, why wouldn’t they go see?
My bags were like lead weights. If someone had pushed me in a canal, I would have immediately sunk to the bottom without much hope of resurfacing. Quite literally, I could barely walk. Luckily, Katie and Mandi, the two kind ladies I met in Bruxelles were able to get me into the luggage room at the Flying Pig Hostel to dump my stuff until I could get in touch with Sandrine and Bas, my gracious hosts.
A cloud of smoke wafted out the entrance of the hostel as we entered. The music was blaring in the front room/bar area and a bunch of stoned college co-eds were lounging incapacitated on a giant mattress in the storefront window. We called the elevator to get to the luggage room, and when the doors open we found two Italians rolling around on the floor making out. I couldn’t handle it. And luckily I didn’t have to.
Sandrine and Bas live about a 15 minute bike ride away from the city center. Once I arrived, they equipped me with my own room, a hot shower and my very own bicycle to use while I was in town. I biked everywhere, which is really the thing to do there. As Bas said, it’s not a city, it’s a large village. I biked to the Van Gogh Museum and the Reijksmuseum, through the Jordaan district, and of course, over to Nijhof and Lee, where I spent way more money than I care to recount. I definitely got to witness a slice of Dutch life that I would not have had I stayed in a hostel. Because I was not riding a rented bike, local cars and bikes treated me as though I was a local, and I was able to zoom about rather effortlessly. I loved the routine of biking through the Vondelpark each day. Turns out a family of storks had taken residence in the park, and it became a ritual of mine to check up on the nest as I passed through.
I decided late one day to go to the Anne Frank Huis. I hadn’t made a reservation ahead of time, but all the guidebooks tell you to go late in the day to avoid the crowds. I think everyone must have read the same thing. The wait was an hour and a half. But after the first 30 minutes I was too stubborn to leave. A heavy storm moved in while I was standing outside, but I remain undeterred. The crowd was predominately American, it seemed. I’m guessing this has to do with the fact that The Diary of Anne Frank was collectively sort of drilled into our brains as a society. Her narrative became really tactile in that space, as visitors were lead through various narrow corridors and rooms. The exhibition design was a bit heavy handed and sparsely laid out, but I guess that’s to be expected with the kind of traffic they get.
Had my first encounter with Suriname food, based on a recommendation in a recent issue of Grafik where they interviewed designers about their favorite places. It was really tasty. Also while out and about I decided to pass through the red light district to see what the fuss was about. Suddenly I became very aware that I was the only lone female in the area, aside from the ladies in their windows. I started to feel that eyes were on me (not surprising in an area that is all about looking). I definitely didn’t fit in. And perhaps people were wondering if I was on my way to my booth or something. It was uncomfortable. So I left.
The weather during my stay oscillated between sunshine and shit. I definitely got rained on more than once while biking around. But it made me feel tough, and reminded me of my days in Berkeley. One day as I was riding, a pigeon flew into my spokes. Wild. I could see myself living in this place for a while. Despite a few seedy undertones, the city has a good vibe.